Room Designs
Standard 20' Room
Long 40' Room
Veg Room
Stacked Room on Damper Package
Two Rooms One Unit
Shipping Container
Large Facility
Unit outside of room
Damper Package with Veg
Instructions Manuals
Evolution Series Design Guidelines
Evolution Series Compressor Replacement
Evolution Series Accessories Anti-Ice Control Installation
Dual Room Damper Package Installation
UV Air Purifier Installation for the XL Series
SC5010 PRO Thermostat Installation, Operation, & Application Guide
ICM I1010 Wifi Thermostat Installation, Operation, & Application Guide
CloudMaker Humidification System Installation
Company
What's unique about our products?
There are many things. We design our products with consideration to the entire experience, from planning to final result. We believe the HVAC industry as a whole is not moving with the technology available and making products of the future rather than relics of the past. We're constantly prototyping new concepts to make installation easier, cut down on technical support and most important perform better for longer.
What is our mission as a company?
To design, produce and support mission critical environmental control units. We believe strongly in providing the absolute best customer service and support before, during and after the installation. We strive to design and build units with versatility, technology and usability in mind. We're the best at what we do because we have tremendous experience in dealing with extreme room conditions and are willing to solve any unique problems customers may have.
What kind of experience does Excel Air Systems have?
We have an incredible amount of experience from our customer service and support representatives to the technicians designing and creating our units. We're very confident in mission critical high pressure situations which is why take the approach of testing all of our gear internally until we believe that it will stand up to the realities of it's duty cycle. The reason we say this is because many companies in the industry do not and look only to their theoretical numbers as a guidance vs. real world testing.
Why would I need quick-connect fittings?
Not everyone needs them, but those that do really don't have another solution. Our quick-connect fittings make installations quick and easy for anyone regardless of HVAC expertise or tool knowledge. It allows for hot swapping any component whether it be a condenser, air handler or even compressor. Just unthread the fittings and install the new component just as easily in minutes. It's for any application where mobility, versatility and ease of install is a necessity. The system will come pre-charged with refrigerant and a lineset to connect the indoor to the outdoor sections. Just connect the fittings and fire up the system it's that easy. You can disconnect and relocate without losing any refrigerant charge. The fittings are refrigerant grade fittings made exclusively to handle R410A and R22 refrigerants. These fittings are fully resealable and can be threaded and unthreaded without failure.
EVOLUTION SERIES
Why is the Evolution Series the ultimate environmental control unit?
It's capable of maintaining temperature, humidity and air quality simultaneously, something no other compact system is capable of doing. We're able to cool the air using microchannel slab coils. Dehumidify the air using a secondary microchannel coil as a reheat coil. Kill spores and bacteria using an integrated UV-C light and clean the air with the Inline Air Filtration Module removing 99% of particulate from the air while killing all odors using Custom Coconut Charcoal.
How are you able to make the Outdoor Condenser so thin?
We removed the compressor from the outdoor condenser and placed it inside the Indoor Air Handler. We did this for two main reasons; make the condenser as versatile as possible (thin, lighter, directional heat discharge) and to make it easier for a mechanic to work on a unit, not having to be outdoors in the sun, rain or snow when servicing.
What makes the Outdoor Condenser unique?
The Evolution Series Condensers are some of the thinnest condensers on the planet. They can be mounted both vertically and horizontally. They use wing tipped blades mounted as one piece to the self cooling motor pushing incredible amounts of air past the microchannel coil. The turn and lock electrical connector makes installation simple and either brazed couplings or quick connect fittings make installation a breeze. The mounting plate also allows for easy modification of custom mounting brackets for any type of requirements.
How can you achieve full capacity in much hotter outdoor temperatures than the rest of the industry?
We use high quality german engineered fans. Our condenser fans are capable of moving over 4500 CFM (5 Ton) and because our coils are within 2" of the fan, heat dissipation is extremely efficient. Our fans are also designed as a 5 blade wing tipped minimizing overall fan noise even at significantly faster speeds. In our testing we found capacity downgrades were seen between 95-100F and we were able to reach 130F outdoor ambient temperature before the system turned off on high heat overload. This is approximately 20-30% greater than the industry average.
How do your units run during the winter?
We integrate a variable speed fan controller into every condenser we produce. This low ambient control will modulate the speed of the fan based on the condenser coil temperature. This will generally slow down the fan during winter months and speed up the fan during the summer to maintain the perfect system temperature, maximizing system performance 365 days a year. We have customers using our systems that have achieved full system function down to -35F!
What should I think about when selecting a spot for my outdoor condenser?
Select a spot that is flat where the condenser can sit properly free of mud/dirt. The condenser has a thick aluminum plate that can be mounted to brackets of virtually any kind. For a rooftop application make sure to point the unit perpendicular to the prevailing winter wind, if you need some assistance with this please ask one of our Product Specialists to assist. Many installers use elevated rails and fasten the baseplate to the rails. For a side of building placement please make sure to have the system 9-12" off the side wall to allow for air to enter both sides and top. If mounting several units side by side allow for at least 18" between each system. If mounting vertically ontop one another make sure to increase the distance to a minimum of 16" off the wall to allow for the air to enter the sides of the unit. The units can be easily mounted to L brackets elevated off the ground on a side wall to limit tampering. Always keep in mind running the linesets as you want this to be as easy as possible.
How to temporarily set up a wind guard?
If for some reason cool winds especially during the winter are ripping through the coil face this can cause pre-mature freezing of the system. A quick temporary fix is to take a half a sheet of plywood and angle it 14" off the base of the condenser on an angle. For added measure wrap a rope or ratchet strap around the unit and wood to keep in place. This will allow enough air to enter through the sides but stop cold winds from causing issues. A long term fix would be to turn the unit 90 degrees or build a fixed wind guard.
Why is the modular frame of the Indoor Air Handler important?
The modular frame is important because it allows us to design a system that can be easily modified without having to redesign the system. This allows us to future proof a system meaning as long as it fits in the "sandbox" anything is possible. We can upgrade fans, coils, compressors basically any piece of the system as long as it can mount within the frame. There are 3 independent modules (coil, fan, compressor/electrical) that when mated together form a complete system. Lastly, with each module being independent we can easily swap out/fix a module and bolt them back together making the system extremely versatile.
Customization
Our Evolution Series is built upon our modular framework allowing us to customize our unit design. Customizations such as antimicrobial paints, ECM Fans, synthetic panels and modified mounts. The options are endless.
Can I use a different controller or thermostat?
Absolutely! Let us know what you're looking to use and we can make sure it will work. On most controller systems all we require are two dry sets of contacts to be able to operate the system properly. We also have our turn and lock connectors which we can customize for up to 9 wires providing tremendous versatility.
How do I properly start up a three-phase Evolution Series system?
How do I properly start up a single-phase Evolution Series system?
How do I conduct basic maintenance on an Evolution Series system?
How do I clean the P-trap on an Evolution Series system?
How do I check and change the air filter on an Evolution Series system?
How do I clean the coil on an Evolution Series system?
How do I utilize quick-connect fittings on an Evolution Series system?
Where are the running pressure access ports on an Evolution Series system?
How do I access the internal components of an Evolution Series system?
What does the information mean on the electrical data label on the Evolution Series system?
How do I replace the ICM Fan Control in the electrical panel?
How do I connect and read a gauge set?
How do I measure voltages with a multimeter?
How do I check the contactor to ensure that it’s in proper form and good condition?
XL Series / Stealth Series / Elite Series
Despite the discontinuation of the XL Series, Stealth Series, and Elite Series systems in 2019, support and resources continue to be available.
Quick Link Below or Scroll Down
DESIGN GUIDELINES
| Capacity | BTU | Cooling Load |
|---|---|---|
| 2.0 TON | 24,000 | 6,000 Watts |
| 2.5 TON | 30,000 | 7-8,000 Watts |
| 3.0 TON | 36,000 | 9,000 Watts |
| 3.5 TON | 42,000 | 10-11,000 Watts |
| 4.0 TON | 48,000 | 12,000 Watts |
| 5.0 TON | 60,000 | 15,000 Watts |
| Based on 80F outdoor temperature R12 insulation or better, burning Co2 Available in 208/230 & 460V 1/3 Phase |
||
These guidelines are real world running conditions. All of our capacities are based on 80F outdoor air temperature, with a room of 76-80F, burning Co2, bare bulbs, ballasts in the room. On outdoor temperatures above 80F we will start de-rating the capacity of the system. It's important not to oversize the system as the closer we get to perfect balance the more constant the system will run, maximizing dehumidification potential. If the system is too oversized it will turn on and off limiting it's dehumidification potential.
Make sure to talk to one of our Product Specialist to help select the unit specific to your requirements. Call 1-877-728-0757 today!
Indoor Air Handler
How do I check for voltage at my Indoor Air Handler?
Answer: Please consult with us at 1-877-728-0757 Ext. 2 and/or watch a step by step video on how to use a voltmeter to test voltage at the Indoor Air handler.
Air Handler fan not working but outdoor condenser is.
Turn off power to indoor air handler. Open indoor air handler electrical panel. Using a stick or tool (not your hand) to manually spin the indoor air handler fan wheel, It should spin freely with no resistance or noise. If it does not spin freely and is not touching the metal housing the motor bearings are defective and this motor would need to be replaced.
If motor spins freely, use a small wire to jumper the terminal marked R and G (join them together) on the indoor air handler wiring sets screws. Do not remove any existing wires, simply add to them. Turn indoor air handler power back on. If the fan still does not turn, your motor is likely the cause of the issue and would need to be replaced.
Unit is icing up
99% of icing up issues are air flow related and typically the result of a dirty or too restrictive air filter.
- Air filters should be replaced every 10 weeks or more frequently in heavy dust or dirty areas. Filter should be thin and replaced often.
***DO NOT USE HIGH EFFICIENCY/HEPA/WASHABLE OR PLEATED FILTERS*** These filters are designed for furnace applications and will overly restrict the airflow of your air conditioner.
- Too low of condensing temperature. Your outdoor condensing unit was equipped with a fan controller. If the fan controller has been bypassed or is defective (fan full speed constantly) the unit may ice up. Feel your small copper liquid line at the outdoor condensing unit. It should feel luke warm, not cold or hot.(98-100 degrees F)
- Too low cooling set temperature, Air conditioning is designed for a thermostat set temperature between 70-80 degrees F. Running your air conditioner below 70 degree F may cause the unit to freeze up or excessive outdoor condensing unit noise and in worst cases cause compressor failure.
- Low on refrigerant. Refrigerant is not consumed by your air conditioning system, it is reused by the system in a constant loop. If you suspect your system is low on refrigerant you can conduct a simple test using a thermometer (AVOID LASER THERMOMETERS AS THEY READ SURFACE TEMPERATURE NOT AMBIENT TEMPERATURE). Measure the air temperature at the air filter of the unit known as the return air. Then measure air temperature at the outlet of the air conditioner known as the supply air . This test must be conducted while the system is on and a/c is running. The temperature reading should be taken as close to the indoor air handling unit as possible. Remove or modify ductwork if necessary. Thermometers are generally slow to react and this test may take up to 5 mins for thermometer to react to its highest or lowest point. A typical difference in temperature should be roughly 17-20 degrees F in difference Eg. 78 F at return air and 58 F at supply air.
Water leaking out of air handler (P trap)
Water (condensation) is pulled from the air as it passes through your indoor air handling unit during air conditioning mode. This water is then diverted from the drain pan to the ¾’’ outlet located on the front face of the indoor air handling unit. The drain pan water cannot overcome the pressure of the indoor air handling fan motor without the help of a proper drain trap. A drain trap is supplied with the purchase of your system.
Do not reduce the size of your drain piping after the trap and be sure it is sloped to a drain or reservoir (water can not go up on its own).
Pre existing systems that develop water leaks are usually caused by sludge in the trap or at the ¾’’ outlet of the indoor air handler. Disassemble the trap and drain pipe and run hot water through them until they flow clearly. Sometimes it is necessary to disconnect the drain pipe after the P trap to diagnose if the water leak is being caused by the unit/P Trap side or if it’s further down the drain line. In this scenario use a bucket to collect the water from your p trap temporarily and see if the problem persists.
How do I replace my drain pan of an AP Indoor Air Handler while it's hanging from the ceiling?
You'll find the ready rod is in the way. You will want to use a 2x4 T to brace the side you'll be removing to access the coil. Watch the video below for the complete removal and installation of the new drain pan.
My AP Indoor Air Handler is leaking water, what do I do?
On AP Indoor Air Handlers produced between January 2016-April 2017 we have seen horizontal applications where under extreme humidity condensation has pooled then starting leaking out of the cabinet. We have produced a Condensation Correction Kit to stop any condensation from leaking. All AP Air Handlers after these dates have been corrected in assembly.
Unit is running but no cold air is coming out
Be sure your power is on to both the indoor air handler and outdoor condensing unit.You should be able to hear you compressor inside the outdoor condensing unit and see the outdoor fan spinning (slow is ok the fan speed is variable and may even stop altogether) . Check that your thermostat is set to cool and at least 3 degrees below the set temperature. Using your instructions supplied with unit, go over your wiring connections again.(be sure to turn all power off before opening any electrical panels.
My heater is not working (temperature difference 8-10F) ampclamp
Electric heat is not as powerful as a household furnace and is meant to keep a space at a set temperature, not heat it up in minutes. It may take several hours to increase a space’s temperature drastically ( 55F TO 75F)
- The simplest way to test if your electric heater is working involves using a thermometer (AVOID LASER THERMOMETERS AS THEY READ SURFACE TEMPERATURE NOT AMBIENT TEMPERATURE). Measure air temperature at the air filter of the unit known as the return air. Then measure air temperature at the outlet of the air conditioner known as the supply air. This test must be conducted while the system is ON and Heat is running. The temperature reading should be taken as close to the indoor air handling unit as possible. Remove or modify ductwork if necessary. Thermometers are generally slow to react and this test may take up to 5 mins for the thermometer to react to its highest or lowest point. A typical difference in temperature should be roughly 8-10 degrees F in difference Eg. 65F at return air and 75F at supply air.
- A secondary test may be done using an amp probe or amp clamp style meter. Simple place the clamp of your amperage meter around the main power wire (a single wire only, not both wires) of your indoor air handler. Amperage on this wire will read roughly 20 amps when the heater is running. And between 3 and 7 amps when the fan is running without heat.
Fuse popping in the indoor air handler
The low voltage fuse is located inside your indoor air handling unit. It is attached to the circuit board. Fuse sizes will vary based on the model of air handler you’re using. Typically they will use a 3 amp or 5 amp ATO fuse (the same fuses used in automobiles). It is very important to use the correct size fuse or damage to electronic parts in the system may occur.
Diagnosing a burnt/blown fuse
Turn OFF the power to your unit. Remove the low voltage wires from your indoor air handling unit’s set screws (thermostat/UV/control wires). Replace the fuse. Turn power ON. If fuse pops.The board is the problem. Replace the circuit board. If the fuse doesn’t pop attach the thermostat wires to the air handling units set screws. Turn power ON to the air handling unit. If fuse pops right away the thermostat/thermostat wires are the problem. Replace them. If the fuse does not pop, turn OFF the power and attach the control wires to Y & C. Turn power ON. If fuse pops, your control wires or outdoor contactor are the problem. Replace them. If the fuse does not pop attach the u/v wires. Turn power on. If the fuse pops, your u/v is the problem. Replace it.
Filter changes/sizing
Filter changes are required maintenance. Systems with dirty or clogged filters will not cool and will cause the system to ice up, which could cause catastrophic consequences to the environment the system is managing. *** DO NOT RUN THE SYSTEM WITHOUT AN AIRFILTER*** Cleaning the indoor air handler coil of a system that has run without an air filter can be a difficult and lengthy task.
Air filters should be replaced every 10 weeks or more frequently in heavy dust or dirty areas. Filter should be thin and replaced often.
***DO NOT USE HIGH EFFICIENCY/HEPA/WASHABLE OR PLEATED FILTERS*** These filters are designed for furnace applications and will overly restrict the airflow of your air conditioner.
What’s the best way to mount my Indoor Air Handler?
You can either mount the Indoor Air Handler vertically or horizontally lying on its right side. Most individuals stand their Indoor Air Handler straight up and down. The only critical requirement is that the bottom of the air handler is at least 12″ off the ground and is supported around the edges allowing for air to pass up through the bottom. You can either build a support stand out of wood or use a bottom plenum. Instructions for Wooden Air Handler Stand. If you are looking to mount horizontally, you must have it sit on its right side, this is because the drain pan is on this side and the water will run off the A-coil and into the drain pan. As for brackets to mount the air handler Excel Air Systems sells a hanging kit that includes lag bolts, ready-rod, unistrut along with washers, bolts and instructions. You can also fabricate your own out of wood or metal. If you choose to build your own make sure to leave enough space for the removal of the front panel along with access to all the fittings and filter tray. Also, when hanging horizontally make sure there is at least 12″-16″ of clearance on both sides of the air handler.
Outdoor Condensing Unit
Can I place an Outdoor Condenser under a porch/indoors/tight space?
The quick answer is NO. The reality is it’s about air flow and temperature. If you place the Condenser in a tight space where the hot air rejecting off the coil hits a low ceiling blocker the hot air will flow directly back to the condenser and now the condenser is trying to use 100F+ air to cool itself down, essential simulating summer temperatures. If you were to place the condenser in a room indoors, the space would eventually heat up so high you would significantly de-rate your system and loose tremendous capacity. With that being said if you can get 3200CFM of cool air back to the condenser and have 3200CFM rejecting the hot air out of the space it could technically work. We do not recommend this and can assist with other ideas that may help you so please contact us at 1-877-728-0757.
Nothing is happening on Outdoor Condenser unit (scroll down for XL single and three phase)
Single phase Elite
1. Make sure breakers/disconnects are turned on to both the Indoor Air Handler and Outdoor Condensing unit.
2. Check low voltage (50 volts A/C or lower settings) inside air handler between set screws “R’’ & “C”.
A. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, check air handler fuse and main power to air handling unit.
B. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, check voltage between set screws "Y stat” & “C”.
C. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, check the thermostat or controller is set to cool and below the room temperature.
D. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, check voltage between set screws “Ycond” & “C”.
E. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, verify the amber light is illuminated on the blue cube relay. The relay may need to be replaced.
G. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, close up the air handler and move to the outdoor condensing unit.
3. Check low voltage (50 volts A/C or lower settings) on the contactor inside the Outdoor Condensing unit on the yellow and blue control wires attached to the bottom of the contactor.
A. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, inspect low voltage wiring for a broken or disconnected wire.
B. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, set your multi meter to a 250 volts A/C and check for voltage on the contactor between the following terminals: L1 - L2. If 208-240 volts A/C is not present, inspect the disconnect and check for a blown fuse or no power.
C. If 208-240 volts A/C is present, set your multi meter to a 250 volts A/C and check for voltage on the contactor between the following terminals: T1 - T2. If 208-240 volts A/C is not present, replace the contactor.
3 phase XL
1. Make sure breakers/disconnects are turned on to both the Indoor Air Handler and Outdoor Condensing unit.
2. Check low voltage (50 volts A/C or lower settings) inside air handler between set screws “R’’ & “C”.
A. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, check air handler fuse and main power to air handling unit.
B. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, check voltage between set screws "Y” & “C”.
C. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, Check the thermostat or controller is set to cool and below the room temperature.
D. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, close up the air handler and move to the Outdoor Condensing unit.
3. Check low voltage (50 volts A/C or lower settings) on the contactor inside the outdoor condensing unit on the yellow and blue control wires attached to the left and right sides of the contactor.
A. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, inspect low voltage wiring for a broken or disconnected wire.
B. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, set your multi meter to a 250 volts A/C and check for voltage on the contactor between the following terminals: L1 - L2, L1-L3 and L2 - L3. If 208-240 volts A/C is not present on any of the three combinations inspect the disconnect and check for a blown fuse or no power.
C. If 208-240 volts A/C is present, Set your multi meter to a 250 volts A/C and check for voltage on the contactor between the following terminals: T1 - T2, T1-T3 and T2 - T3. If 208-240 volts A/C is not present on any of the three combinations replace the contactor.
Single phase XL
1. Make sure breakers/disconnects are turned on to both the Indoor Air Handler and Outdoor Condensing unit.
2. Check low voltage(50 volts A/C or lower settings) inside air handler Between set screws “R’’ & “C".
A. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, check air handler fuse and main power to air handling unit.
B. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, check voltage between set screws "Y” & “C”.
C. If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, check the thermostat or controller is set to cool and below the room temperature.
D. If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, close up the air handler and move to the Outdoor Condensing unit.
3. Check low voltage (50 volts A/C or lower settings) on the contactor inside the outdoor condensing unit on the yellow and blue control wires attached to the left and right sides of the contactor.
A.If voltage 16-30 VAC is not present, inspect low voltage wiring for a broken or disconnected wire.
B.If voltage 16-30 VAC is present, set your multi meter to a 250 volts A/C and check for voltage on the contactor between the following terminals:
L1 - L2. If 208-240 volts A/C is not present, inspect the disconnect and check for a blown fuse or no power.
C.If 208-240 volts A/C is present, Set your multi meter to a 250 volts A/C and check for voltage on the contactor between the following terminals:
T1 - T2. If 208-240 volts A/C is not present, replace the contactor.
Outdoor fan is not working or spinning slow
Our units use a fan speed controller to increase/Decrease fan speed or even stop the outdoor fan motor completely. This allows our units to run optimally in almost all outdoor weather conditions. The outdoor fans job is to cool down hot refrigerant gas and turn it into a warm liquid refrigerant to be re-used by the indoor air handlers evaporator. If you believe your fan controller isn’t functioning correctly you can perform a simple test.
- Hand method: Using your bare hand, hold the small uninsulated bare copper tube line protruding from the outdoor condensing unit while system is running. It should feel warm, not hot or cold (roughly 100 degrees F).
**You may notice some fluctuations in temperature. Hotter = when fan is slowing down and Colder = when fan is speeding up.
Outdoor unit cycles on and off (every 30secs)
If the outdoor condensing units compressor is turning on and off in rapid cycles (30 seconds or less), this is not normal. The system uses a high pressure shut off switch to prevent damage to the compressor.
There are typically two major causes.
For new installations or relocations, be sure to inspect your linesets for kinks (50% or more kinked and the system will not function) Check that all fitting are attached and secure. Using a tape measure, Measure the thread left showing on your refrigerant fittings ***not the space between the male and female fittings*** Small lineset fittings(liquid line) should have roughly ¼’’ of thread left showing +/- ⅛’’ Large and medium lineset fittings (suction/reclaim/discharge lines)should have roughly ½’’ of thread left showing +/- ⅛’’. If your spacing is incorrect do not attempt to tighten fitting further. They are more then likely binding internally (not striped). With system off, loosen fitting almost all the way off. Retighten fitting while jiggling pipe up and down, left and right. Repeat measuring process.
Your outdoor fan is not functioning causing the pressure inside the outdoor condensing unit to increase and shut off on high pressure safety. See bypass fan control below.
Decibel Chart:
When looking at these values in the Stealth Series the values will change as there is no compressor outdoors so the only sound is the fan/motor which will modulate up and down depending on outdoor air temperature and total refrigerant temperature.
XL SERIES
2.0-3.5 Ton = 76dBA
4-5 Ton= 75dBA
STEALTH SERIES
We generally see all systems run between 55-60dBA when fan is modulating.
AC stays running, never shuts off
If your outdoor unit is not shutting off but the room has met its set desired temperature, turn OFF the breaker to the indoor air handling unit only and leave the breaker ON to the outdoor condensing unit. Check to see if the outdoor condensing unit has shut off. If it did shut off your issue is probably wiring or a bad thermostat. Open your thermostat cover plate and remove the wire installed in the “Y” terminal (making sure it does not touch any other wires). Turn breaker back ON. If outdoor condensing unit does not run then your thermostat needs to be replaced. If turning OFF the indoor air handlers breaker did not shut off the outdoor condenser unit it is likely that your wiring is wrong or the contactor inside the outdoor condensing unit is stuck (welded closed).
Check wiring at indoor air handling unit’s low voltage set screws.
Y terminal should have two black wires (one for the thermostat Y and one for the outdoor condensing units control “Y”).
Inspect outdoor condensing units contactor. Shut OFF all breakers for the outdoor condensing unit and indoor air handling unit. Open electrical cover plate on outdoor condensing unit. Locate your main power contactor. The small black device that the unit’s main power wires are attached to (usually says L1,L2,T1 and T2 on the front face of it). Remove the two small phillips screw from the front face (piece that says L1,L2,T1 and T2) Remove this cover piece. Under this piece is a plunger, a piece of plastic that should push in and out freely. This plunger moves a piece of flat copper up and down to make or break the electricity to the condenser. Inspect this copper plate. In poor conditions (low voltage or long use) this copper plate can weld itself closed. You can gently pry on this with a flat screwdriver to try and free it. Once it moves freely reinstall the cover pieces and electrical cover plate. Turn all breakers back on and start up the unit. *****THIS IS NOT A PERMANENT FIX, THIS WILL GET YOU THROUGH THE WEEKEND OR EVENING. THE CONTACTOR MUST BE REPLACED ASAP***
Contactor not pulling in
The contactor is a low voltage (24 volts A/C) switch used to turn on the high voltage power to your outdoor condensing unit. It is located inside the outdoor condensing units electrical panel. You can verify it is functioning using a voltage meter. Set your voltage meter to A/C voltage with a range greater than 240 volts.
- Measure voltage from terminals L1 to L2, 208-240 volts should be measured. If voltage is not present your main power wire needs to be inspected. Check that the breakers or disconnect switch are ON.
- Measure voltage from T1 to T2, 208-240 volts should be measured. If voltage is not present your contactor is not closing. Check your low voltage connections on the left and right side of the contactor (yellow and blue wire or yellow and black wire) it should measure 24 volts a/c. If 24 volts A/C is not present, inspect your control Y & C cable. Follow it back to the indoor air handler checking for nicks or tears in the cable. The control Y & C cable attaches to the low voltage terminal inside your Indoor air handling unit on the Y (black) and C (white) terminals. Check for 24 volts A/C on the Y and C terminal of indoor air handler. If 24 volts A/C is not present, the problem is likely the thermostat or thermostat wires.
Will my unit work below 38F outside?
Yes, all Excel Air Systems air conditioning units are equipped with a fan cycling controls (low ambient controls) designed to keep your system running in low outdoor temperatures. We have seen our systems run in as low as -35F outdoor air temperatures.
***cross winds will affect the system’s ability to maintain proper fan speed during freezing conditions. It is important to protect the unit from wind blowing through the unit. Build a wall or blocker to prevent the unit from freezing up.***
Temporary solution for bypassing the fan control for troubleshooting purposes.
***Not recommended to permanently run when outdoor ambient temperature are below 55F***
There are two ways to do this, manually and electronically.
Electronically
Turn main power OFF to the outdoor condensing unit. Remove Outdoor condensing units electrical panel. Locate the black ICM fan controller (covered in white lettering reading ICM) move the N.C heat pump bypass pin located at the bottom left of the ICM fan controller one spot down. The bypass pin is a small black plastic jumper that can only cover two of three metal pins at once. Bottom two pins covered means the fan controller is bypassed. Top two pins covered means the fan controller in the variable speed position. View video below
Mechanically
Turn main power OFF to the outdoor condensing unit. Remove the Outdoor condensing units electrical panel. Locate the black ICM fan controller (covered in white lettering reading ICM) Remove the black wire/connector from the top right terminal marked motor 2 (wiggling the connector helps in removing it from its terminal). Attach the black wire/connector to the terminal marked line 2 (terminal 2 black wire/connector has an extra male connector attached to it for this purpose). There will now be two black wires/terminals attached to line 2 of the ICM fan controller.
Outdoor condensing unit is loud
Make sure you have a constant heat load in the room. Air conditioners with little to no heat load are often noisier than when they have a heat load.
Air conditioning is designed for temperature between 70-80F, below these set temperatures the outdoor condensing unit will operate louder and will put significant strain on the system. If lower than normal temperatures is something you’re trying to achieve be sure to contact Excel Air Systems for additional solutions.
Condenser placement
Outside in open free air. DO NOT PLACE INDOORS. It is important not to block the airflow of your outdoor condensing unit. Outdoor condensing unit should be level and accessible for maintenance/repairs. The outdoor condensing unit is designed to be out in the elements eg. snow, rain, sun. If you are in a strong cross wind area you may need to build a wall or blocker to prevent wind from flowing through the sides of your outdoor condensing unit. Make sure to have at least 12-18” around the entire condenser to proper airflow.
Air Handler works but outdoor condenser doesn’t
Check all breakers, Outdoor condensing unit breaker and indoor air handler breaker(both pieces of equipment require a power source. Check your control Y & C cable is connected properly at the outdoor condensing unit as well as at the indoor air handling unit. (Black into Y terminal paired with thermostat black) and (white into C terminal paired with the thermostat white).
Thermostat
How to switch the I1010WHR touchscreen thermostat system to cooling and set humidity level, scheduling, and fan mode.
How to connect Wifi I3 Thermostat to my network and control via the smartphone app?
How to select the Thermostat Mode on both the Thermostat and the smartphone app?
How to set humidity setpoints on both the thermostat and smartphone app?
How to set a schedule on the Wifi Thermostat using the smartphone app?
How to enable different features of the I3 Wifi Thermostat smartphone app?
How to handover control of the Wifi I3 Thermostat?
How do I program my Excel 5010 Thermostat 2.0 for day and night cycles?
You can either download the manual that came with the thermostat (Instructions) or watch a step by step video.
Thermostat clicks but no cooling
Check your breakers. When in doubt shut them off for 5 mins and try again.
Remove the batteries from your thermostat and try again. If the thermostat goes blank, you have no power to the air handling unit. Check to make sure you have 230V 1 Phase to your Indoor Air Handler.
Thermostat differential/deadband
Differential = The number of degrees your system will remain off for above your set temperature
Example. 76F set temperature with 3 degree differential.
System will cool to 76F, Shut off cooling. System will not start cooling until room reaches 79F.
Dead Band = The number of degrees the system will not run between heating and cooling set points.
Example. Heat set at 65F and Cool set 70F with 5 degree deadband.
The 5 degree deadband will not allow you to set the heat or cooling closer than 5 degrees of each other. Heat set point must be lowered to lower your cool set point
DEADBAND
DIFFERENTIAL
Thermostat placement
The onboard temperature probe of a wall mounted thermostat must be in good airflow and not be located under a direct heat source or light (Infrared heat can cause false temperature readings).
The best place to mount a thermostat is in good airflow and near the air handlers return air inlet (air filter end of indoor air handler).
*HINT. If you think your thermostat is reading incorrectly, blow a small fan at it and read the temperature again in 5 minutes. This will show the relevance of good airflow for proper thermostat function.
Thermostat is reading wrong
See above
Do I have to use Excel Air Systems’ thermostat?
No, any electronic (low voltage) thermostat will work.
Things to look for in a thermostat are:
***Compressor protection (3-5 minute compressor off delay) MOST IMPORTANT damage to compressor may occur without this protection***
The use of a grounded C terminal (not required but eliminates the necessity of batteries to operate your thermostat.)
Daily programmable schedule (if you want a varying temperature throughout your day and night cycles).
What is the best thermometers to use, how to take temperature?
Digital, probe style are the best, Avoid laser thermometers as they read surface temperature and not ambient air temperatures.
For diagnosing air conditioners three key temperatures are almost always required.
Return Air – RA = temperature of air returning to the indoor air handler (filter side)
Supply Air – SA = temperature of air leaving the indoor air handler (fan side)
Room Temperature – RT = the air temperature at the units thermostat. (beside thermostat)
*It is important to read all temperature as close to the unit or thermostat as physically possible.Not ten feet down the Supply air duct, Right at the air handler. Even if you have to remove/open or drill a hole in the air handler plenum or duct.
Why won’t my thermostat turn on?
Check to make sure all wires are fastened to the proper terminals on the control board inside the Indoor Air Handler. You must remove the front panel of the Indoor Air Handler to access the control board. Make sure the following colors are matched up; (Red=R, Black=Y, Green=G, Orange=W1, White=C). Now check to make sure all wires are tight and correct on the sub-base (mounting spot of the thermostat). If these are correct and tight to the board check the small fuse located on the control board. For further questions contact technical support.
Is there a programmable dehumidistat?
No, to our knowledge there is not a stand alone programmable dehumidistat that exist. There are however all-in-one thermostat/dehumidistat/humidistats.(our systems are not designed for this style of controller,please contact our technical support before doing so) There just doesn’t seem to be a market for a stand alone programmable dehumidistat, Yet….
Compressor
My mechanic says my compressor is shot
Compressors generally don’t half work. They can short to ground (breaker trips instantly), seize (Breaker trips eventually) or run but not pump (equal pressure on both side of compressor). Nobody wants to be sold an expensive part they don’t actually need.
Question to ask if a mechanic or “buddy” says the compressor is shot:
1. Is it shorted to ground?
2. Is it an open winding?
3. What are the high and low side pressures?
4. What is the compressors running/starting amperage?
5. Resistance value of compressor start and run windings to common?
Compressor won’t start
Check all breakers. Compressor unit breaker and indoor air handler breakers (both pieces of equipment require a power source). Check your control Y & C cable is connected properly at the compressor unit as well as at the indoor air handling unit. (Black into Y terminal paired with thermostat black) and (white into C terminal paired with the thermostat white).
The contactor is a low voltage (24 volts A/C) switch used to turn on the high voltage power to your compressor unit. It is located inside the compressor units electrical panel. You can verify it is functioning using a voltage meter. Set your voltage meter to A/C voltage with a range greater than 240 volts.
-Measure voltage from terminals L1 to L2, 208-240 volts should be measured. If voltage is not present your main power wire needs to be inspected. Check that the breakers or disconnect switches are on.
-Measure voltage from T1 to T2, 208-240 volts should be measured. If voltage is not present your contactor is not closing. Check your low voltage connections on the left and right side of the contactor(yellow and blue wire or yellow and black wire) it should Measure 24 volts a/c. If voltage is present your compressor has overheated. Turning the breaker off to the compressor unit for a minimum of 30 minutes will reset the overheat safety switch. If you still having issues please call technical support 1-877-728-0757 EXT#2 Mon-Fri 9AM-5PM PST.
Lineset
Question: How do I properly connect the quick connect fittings?
Answer: When connecting the fittings together you want to make sure they are square both vertically and horizontally. The fittings should easily thread together by hand until the last two turns. Then you’ll want to use two wrenches to snug up the fittings. Wrenches for the fittings need to open to 1 3/4″ and can be adjustable water pump pliers just make sure that the fittings are level on both planes. Up-and-down and side to side. They screw together very smoothly and evenly until they’re tight at that point just snug them right up. Over tightening is not advised. If a fitting gets stuck mid way through, most times all that’s required is to wiggle the fitting back and forth while threading, this allows the fitting to realign properly. Generally the large fitting is 1/2″ from base when fully tight and the small fitting is approximately 1/4″ from the base.
What should I do with the extra copper lineset I have left over after running all my lines?
Our recommendation is to keep them coiled up and either screw them to the wall or ceiling up and out of the way using strapping, preferably flat. Your unit will run perfectly fine leaving the lineset coiled.
Ideas on how to bend the copper lines
The refrigerant lines can be bent, using slow long bends should be used as not kink the pipe. If tighter bends are required a bender must be used. Tool rental companies now rent Ratchet Bender kits. They can bend 3/8-7/8″ pipes. Piping on the outside of the building should be protected from being hit or mutilated. The pipe can be in the weather without any issues or problems.
Here is a video on how to easily unroll the copper lineset.
Can I get a longer line set?
Yes you can. Our standard system comes with 40′ of pre-charge line set however we can easily extended to 80′ max.
Liquid line is sweating/ Suction line is sweating/ Discharge line is hot
Suction line (large insulated pipe) should feel cool and may sweat depending on temperature and humidity.
Liquid line (small un insulated pipe) should feel lukewarm 100F.
Discharge line (short medium size line, used on stealth models only) should feel very hot 150-180F.
Should I insulate the liquid line?
The liquid line does not require insulation, as it does not get overly hot or cold and should not sweat.
Lineset modification
****Never under any circumstance modify the Elite series liquid line, The system will not function.****
The liquid line on the Elite Series is used as a receiver to balance the indifference of unit charge required when switching from dehumidifier mode to air conditioning mode.
Any modification to Excel Air Systems’ pre-charged line sets are not recommended, however we understand that sometimes it is required. Modifying the suction, discharge or hot gas reclaim lines do not require any refrigerant charge modification. The liquid line does require a specific charge based off overall length.
Formula.
Liquid line length – 15’ x 0.68 ounces/ft = total liquid line charge.
Eg. 30’ liquid line would require:
30’-15’=15 x 0.68 ounces =10.2 ounces of liquid line charge
There is a kink in my line, what should I do?
Depending on the severity of the kink try and take a set of pliers and squeeze the side of the kink to attempt to straighten it out. Be very cautious when doing this as to not break the copper completely. If the kink is too severe you will need to replace the copper line.
Unit pipe sizes
All refrigeration pipe sizes are measured in “OD” (outside diameter)
Suction line (large insulated pipe)
⅝’’ 2-2.5 ton
¾’’ 3-3.5 ton
⅞’’ 4-5 ton
Liquid line (small non-insulated pipe)
⅜’’ 2-5 ton XL and STEALTH series
½’’ 2-5 ton ELITE series
Discharge line (medium short hot gas line)
⅝’’ 2-5 ton STEALTH series
Hot gas reclaim line
⅝’’ 2-5 ton ELITE series
Difference between flexible and copper linesets
From the beginning of HVAC copper tubing has been used to flow refrigerant through the system. Copper is malleable and readily available, However it does have some limitations. Soft as it is, it can be kinked and make running the line sets a difficult. Without proper tools it may be very difficult to make an eye pleasing install with tight 90 degree bends.
Flexible line sets offer the exact same performance, but they make the install incredibly simple. They also make it possible to bend virtually any degree bend with ease and no special tools required. Installing or relocating your unit has never been simpler. In short you will never need a new lineset even if you were to change your setup or re-install elsewhere.
What are the minimum air duct sizes for each system size?
| TON | MIN SUPPLY AIR SIZE | MIN RETURN AIR SIZE |
|---|---|---|
| 2.0 | 12" | 12" |
| 2.5 | 12" | 12" |
| 3.0 | 14" | 14" |
| 3.5 | 14" | 14" |
| 4.0 | 16" | 16" |
| 5.0 | 16" | 16" |
What gauge wire size should I use?
It all depends on the size of your unit. Below is a chart with wire size recommendations;
2.0 Ton
2.5 Ton
12 Gauge/15A Breaker
3.5 Ton
4.0 Ton
10 Gauge/30A Breaker
5.0 Ton
8 Gauge/40A Breaker
*If installing a 5kW Heater please consult Excel Air Systems as you will require larger wire/breaker size. (10 gauge wire with 30A two pole breaker)
What tools will I need to install an Excel Air Systems unit?
Two wrenches and a flat head screwdriver should be pretty much everything you’ll need. Our systems are designed so that virtually anyone can install the unit whether they have any experience with air conditioning or not. We do this by doing all the complex brazing and charging at our factory and only leave the final connection to you. We continue to evolve our products by constantly improving our products making them easier and more dependable.
How do I check check my system pressures using a gauge set?
Please consult with us by calling 1-877-728-0757 Ext. 2 and/or watch a step by step video on how to use a gauge set.
Does it matter which power wire goes onto each part of the contactor?
It does not matter which cable is fastened down on the either part of the contactor. Both wires have 120V giving you a total of 240V to the contactor. Make sure to fasten the ground wire to the ground terminal and if you have a COMMON wire DO NOT USE IT! Cut the wire and terminate the wire with a marret and some electrical tape.
Does it matter which power wire goes to black or purple power wire on the Indoor Air Handler?
No it does not. Using the marrets included in your package marret either wire to each of the black and purple power wires. Connect the ground wire to the ground terminal. DO NOT USE A COMMON WIRE! Cut the COMMON WIRE and terminate with a marret and electrical tape.
Can I use a 3rd party Controller with Excel Air Systems products?
Yes you can. All you need is two dry set of contacts which most manufacturers should have. There are a handful of control companies that actually sell Excel Contacts for purchase.
I want to relocate my system, is there anything I need to do?
The best thing to do is to “pump down” the system. This is to pump refrigerant into the outdoor condenser using the compressor. In order to pump down the system firstly make sure the system is running and calling for cooling. Next, you need to locate the valve on the liquid line (small pipe) on the outdoor condenser. There is a brass hex cap that is to be removed and an allen key (3/16”) socket will be there. Turn the allen key clockwise until it bottoms out. This will pump the refrigerant into the condenser. Turn off the system after 1 minute. Close the large valve that is beside the liquid line valve. That allen key is (5/16”) and can be closed by turning the allen key clockwise until it’s closed. When the system has been relocated and all of the refrigerant lines are reconnected properly along with all the fittings being tight, open both of the closed valves (counter clockwise). Make sure BOTH valves are open, replace the hex caps and start up your system.
What should I know when looking to add a 5kW Heater to my air handler?
When adding a 5kW Heater you must make sure you use an 8-10 gauge wire 30A two pole breaker in your Indoor Air Handler. Don’t worry as both your cooling and heating will never run at the same time. Installing the heater is extremely easy and designed as a modular add-on that be added at any time. (Check out the video below)
How much heat do I need?
You really shouldn’t need much. All the Heater is designed to do is keep your night time cycle generally 10-15F from your daytime temperature (Ex. 75F Day 65F Night). For most rooms the 5kW Heater is perfect. Unless your space drops significantly low at night the 5kW Heater should work great for your room. Once the heater is installed all you have to do is set your Daytime and Nighttime temperatures.
Where should I put my compressor box?
Ideally, the compressor box should be inside in a garage, shed or within your space. The only limitation you really have is that you can only go 15′ from the Outdoor Condenser. We have the ability to extend the discharge line to 20′ max. Some clients have hung the compressor box in their space using one of our Hanging Kits to get it up out of the way. There are many options just keep in mind you’ll want to have easy access in the event you need to do any diagnostics, make sure there is access to the control panel and fitting connections at all times!
Does my compressor need to stand straight up and down or can I lay it on its side?
The compressor must stay upright. As the oil in the compressor must stay at the bottom of the compressor to keep everything properly lubricated.
How often do I need to re-charge my unit?
NEVER. It’s a closed loop system meaning it should never be low on refrigerant unless there is a leak. The refrigerant will never go bad. If you have a leak, some are small and will require a re-charge once every few years where larger leaks could require more frequently.
My unit doesn’t seem to be cooling but the compressor is running?
Check every quick connect fitting on the system. Make sure they are lined up properly meaning they are on even plains and are threading properly. DO NOT USE PIPE TAPE. Use two wrenches, one to hold the fitting solid on the unit piece and one wrench to turn on the lineset. Tighten until tight, do not over tighten. Many issues have been resolved by clients going back over their fittings and finding one or more fittings a quarter turn loose. Other things to check would be the valves located on the base of the Outdoor Condensing Unit. Remove caps and make sure the Allen key holes are all the way to the top, or in some models that the ball valve is completed turned to the left side (towards you). Lastly, check to make sure there are no kinks on any of the copper lines. On the larger insulated line, to your hand and run it pressed against the foam insulation.
Check your filter in your Indoor Air Handler as lack of airflow can cause the Indoor Air Handler to freeze up. Watch a video on how to change out your air filter (below).
How often should I change my filter?
It really depends on the type of environment your air handler is running in. A rule of thumb would be every couple months, but that being said make sure to check your filter often as a cheap component like the filter will protect your entire system.
What’s the best way to check if my system is working properly?
There are several things you want to check but the easiest is to check your supply and return air temperatures at your Indoor Air Handler. Make sure the system has been running for at least 15 minutes with a full load as this will give us proper readings. You want to take a thermometer and place it in both the return and supply air for at least 60 seconds and record the numbers. Under “most” circumstances you should see 12-15+ degrees. Watch this video on how this is done.
How to program IPONIC 600/624 Controller with my system?
Please watch the video below and below is our Excel Air Systems wiring code for IPONICS Controllers;
Red- 24VAC —- USED
Green- Fan— USED
Black (Yellow in video)- Compressor— USED
Orange- Heat— Cap off if unused
White- Common— Cap off
Will my unit run properly in the harsh winter/summer?
The unit itself can handle virtually any temperature hot or cold, the difference will be what capacity it can maintain and that has limits. All of our capacities are based on 80-85F outdoor temperature and assuming you have R12 insulation or better in your walls. This gives us a very good standard capacity to work with. Any summer temperatures above 90F will start to de-rate the system and you’ll find temperatures in your room will start to creep throughout the day. Temperatures above 95F will require either unplugging heat load to keep up or running higher room temperatures and temperatures above 100F will significantly de-rate the system to the point you’ll want to let us know before buying the unit what temperatures you could run into on a constant basis and we’ll make sure we plan for it. A good tip for extremely hot locations is to run during the night as the system won’t need to be pushed beyond it’s limits. As for extreme cold generally running our systems down to 14F (-10C) shouldn’t be a problem, as we go below that we’ll want to monitor our outdoor condenser as we want to make sure we can maintain temperature. We’ve had our units run in outdoor temperatures of -22F(-30C) but the unit was being monitored daily.
When wiring the Outdoor Condenser what type of wiring should be used?
It depends whether it’s an XL Series where the compressor is located in the Condenser or it’s a Stealth Series and the compressor will be remotely located. If it’s an XL Series you’ll need to refer to the Wire Gauge diagram near the top of the FAQ page. For example a 5 Ton would require a 40A two pole breaker with 8 gauge wire. You only require two hot wires and a ground, NO COMMON IS REQUIRED. Depending on price it’s possible to cut, wire nut and tape it closed and use the RED, BLACK and GROUND wire.
Do I need to oil my Outdoor Condenser motor?
No. You will do more harm than good to the motor as the motor is a sealed design.
How do I clean my Outdoor Condenser?
Take a garden hose and spray the coil down, try not to get excess water directed towards the control panel as there are electrical components. There are also coil cleaners that are environmentally and aluminum safe that you spray on and leave for a few minutes and then are washed clean.
How do I clean my Indoor Air Handler?
As with the outdoor condenser a standard water hose can be used as too much pressure can bend the fins over. You can also use the spray-on coil cleaner then wash it off. You will find if you change your filter regularly and use a UV Air Purifier you will have very little buildup of any dirt/debris.
The fan on my Outdoor Condensing Unit won’t turn on.
It’s not uncommon for a Stealth Unit to take a few minutes for the condenser fan to turn on due to it being controlled by system temperature. Especially during winter operation however if the system continues to run and the fan doesn’t turn on the system most often will go into protection mode where it will turn off the compressor for at least 30 minutes or the cooling capabilities will be significantly degraded.
STEALTH SERIES
Things to check on a Stealth Series unit would be to make sure all wires coming into the front panel of the outdoor condenser are matched up according to color and that the molex connector on the front of the compressor box is plugged in properly. Next on the Stealth would be to check the 2 wire molex connector on the compressor box to the control board on the Indoor Air Handler. Lastly, check to see if fan control (black box found inside cover panel of outdoor condensing unit) has an orange or green LED lit up. If not, contact technical support for further instruction.
XL SERIES
On XL Series units make sure the two wire is connected from the two push connectors on the Outdoor Condensing unit to Y & C on the control board found inside the Indoor Air Handler.
My unit seems to run fine but after the unit switches off, it seems to take a bit to come back on even if the temperature is above the set point.
There is a 5 minute time delay set on the thermostat straight from our factory. The reason this is put in place is to stop the unit from short cycling (trying to turn on the compressor before the previous pressure has zeroed out). Your temperatures may climb a bit however this process will be constant and the average temperature will be your desired setting. There should be no ill effects. Contact technical support for any additional information.
What is a high temperature cutout?
This is a device anyone with a large electrical heat load should have as a safety. It’s a product most electricians will be able to provide. It’s a device that will go inline with your ballasts’ or main electrical connection that senses the temperature in your space and if the temperature reaches 90-100F it will de-energize a relay and drop all your heat load until the temperature drops back to a proper level, saving your space from serious heat/fire issues. We absolutely recommend you install a high temp. cutout into every space.
Why won’t my motorized dampers close?
There can be several factors. The first you could have one of your two wires not properly connected or there is not power connected. The dampers will FAIL open with no power. Another reason can be electrical/gear issue which almost always is either the motor placement on your damper is placed on the bottom of the damper where moisture can condensate and drip onto the motor or pushing on the dampers and grinding the gears flat. DO NOT EVER PUSH ON THE DAMPERS BY HAND!
I can’t find my thermostat, wiring or instructions?
Most often the package containing these pieces is found inside the front panel of the Indoor Air Handler, remove the 4 screws and you should see an airtight bag. Don’t forget to fasten the front panel back on before running the system.
Why don’t you make a mini-split unit?
Mini-splits are not designed for mission critical heat loads. They are designed for inexpensive comfort cooling, generally for single areas. The design of these units do not allow for any flexibility as the blowers are the absolute minimum CFM required (800CFM vs. 1600CFM), you cannot add-on UV Air Purifiers properly, as well as Dual Room Damper Packages or Ducting to evenly disperse the air throughout the room.
Will I benefit from Inverter technology I see in Mini-Splits?
Inverter technology that you commonly see in many newer mini-splits is great for areas where heat loads vary from hour to hour such as living rooms/bedrooms, places where people may come and go. Inverter compressors will ramp down and use less energy as heat loads aren’t really there, unfortunately they don’t do you any good when you have a constant heat load 12hrs at a time. Also, due to design Inverters will not run properly in the winter as you will have a full heat load all the time so the compressor won’t slow down which means your outdoor condenser fan will continue to spin full speed which means your systems will freeze up.
SEER rating, why it really doesn’t matter for mission critical applications
SEER (Season Energy Efficiency Rating) is a rating system that bases the average number of cooling hours required over a summertime period divided by power required to BTU produced. SEER ratings are generally only used on residential systems under 5 Ton (60,000BTU). Why it’s irrelevant to mission critical application is because virtually all systems will be identical in power consumption at FULL LOAD. Where SEER ratings are based on partial loads for several months a year vs. FULL LOAD x 12/24hrs per day x 365 days a year. The higher SEER ratings will come from two places, larger coils (much larger units=surface area) and inverter compressors. These Inverter Compressors can start as low as 30% capacity and ramp up and so the tests will take into account low-medium speed, not full speed with full heat load! By design these compressors also overwork their compressors by 120% where as our units are designed to run their best at 100% not straining the components. Generally, you pay 20-30% more to obtain a higher SEER rating that for your application most likely would give you less return on investment.
Will my a/c dehumidify?
Absolutely! Your A/C will generally remove up to 5 gallons (80 pints) per Ton every 12 hours in humid environments. Our Elite 5 Ton system will remove over 50 Gallons (400+ pints) per 24 hours!
Accessories/UPGRADES
Plenums
Should I use a Top Plenum?
It’s highly recommended every installation uses a Top Plenum. The reason for this is because it allows for easy ducting connection, allowing for even cooling coverage throughout the room.
How do I build a Top Plenum?
Match the edges up to make a 90 degree edge and using a hammer bang the edge into the side opening from top to bottom. Repeat so all four sides are complete. Place the top over all the edges and hammer the top down, once everything is together hammer the four corners inward locking the top piece down.
How do I set up a Fabric Duct plenum?
UV Air Purifier
Is the UV Air Purifier a miracle cure?
Yes and No. It’s designed to kill spores, bacteria and mold on contact with the UV light. That’s why it’s important to have it inline with the Indoor Air Handler to have a constant kill rate every 2-3 minutes as the air passes the bulb continuously. As for mold’s already in the space it will not kill anything that it cannot reach by contact (2-4″ from bulb). Installing a UV Air Purifier in your space is the simplest most effective way to begin the process of running a medical grade environment.
Why is it recommended to integrate a UV Air Purifier into my unit?
Our UV Air Purifiers are designed to be easily installed within our units. The UV Air Purifier operates in the UV-C (254nM) wavelength and dual shielded quartz bulb ensuring ideal operating conditions to remove moulds, bacteria and pathogens in the air. The bulb has a maximum lifespan of 2 years running 24hrs per day. If you want to purify your space easily and efficiently our UV Air Purifier is a no brainer.
How do I install a UV Air Purifier on an Evolution Series system?
FABRIC DUCT AIR SYSTEM
How to install the Fabric Duct Air System?
What are the benefits of using Fabric Duct over hard duct?
There are so many! Fabric Duct can be installed virtually anywhere from low height spaces to uneven ceilings. It's air craft cable mount makes it extremely versatile in spaces of any size. The Fabric Duct just snaps onto the tensioned line and will follow the line no matter what the path. The duct itself is manufactured with fire resistant high quality polyester fabric. The dispersion holes are laser cut and can be customized for specific distance, throw, velocity and angle. The duct can even be extended by unzipping the end cap and adding an additional section.
What is the Inline Air Filtration Module?
It's a modular add-on that can be added to any Evolution Series Indoor Air Handler at any time. Never before has any air conditioner/dehumidifier ever integrated mass air filtration into a system. It's designed to remove particulates along with odors out of the air leaving perfectly clean air as a result. Each module comes with a MERV15 high efficiency filter along with 25lbs of Custom Coconut Charcoal or Zeolite compound depending on the application. It's an incredible add-on for any clean room type applications.
When would I need a Flexible Linset?
Our Flexible Lineset is great for anyone looking to relocate numerous times over the lifespan of the unit. It also works great on hard installation runs where hard pipe would be extremely difficult to run such as non linear runs, 90 or even 180 degree bends and temporary placements.
Why use electric heat?
Most of our clients only require heat for night time temperature bumps, meaning they just need to stop a space from freezing or getting too low. Electric heat although not as efficient as other methods of heating for comfort is ideal as a backup or top up heating platform due to the fact electricity is available everywhere vs. natural gas or propane. It's easily added on and is available in various sizes depending on requirements of the space.
Is a plenum really necessary?
Absolutely, just for the fact it allows you to control the airflow throughout the space. On some of our units the plenum is already integrated which makes things easier however it's not always the desired size, number/size of outlets so we offer free customization.
SIZING / Designing
Where do I even start?
You start with figuring out what you're looking to achieve in your space. What level of control are you looking for? What temperature, humidity and air quality are required? What type of budget are you working with? Below is a list of questions we will be asking;
What is the size of your space (length, width, height)
Is it one open space or multiple rooms
Are the walls and ceiling insulated
Are their windows and/or south facing walls
What are the maximum high and low outdoor temperatures we can expect during the winter or summer months
What type of heat loads are we dealing with (Ex. equipment, lighting, people)
What temperature and humidity are you looking to achieve
What level of air quality levels are you looking to achieve
Did you know we offer FREE 3D room designs?
Temperature
When designing for temperature we'll look at heat loads as the main focus point. We know our units can produce "X" cooling capacity and by knowing what those heat loads are and converting them to BTU's we'll be able to size your unit accordingly. Secondly, we'll look at what type of outdoor temperatures your area may encounter especially during the summer. All air conditioning units will lose capacity as the outdoor air gets warmer as it becomes much more difficult to cool the refrigerant down before it loops back to the Indoor Air Handler. Lastly, insulation makes control much easier as we remove extreme variables such as heat/cold penetrating through walls, glass and vents.
Humidity
Humidity is a difficult concept for many to understand as it doesn't react the same in all conditions. Air that is warmer can hold more moisture vs. air that is cooler cannot. This is why when you have a space say running equipment while maintaining 50% humidity say shuts off after it's 12 hour cycle the humidity can shoot up to 70%+ initially and gradually come down as temperature evens out and/or a dehumidifier draws excess moisture out while raising the room temperature. Understanding what will be in the space (plants, equipment, vents to the outside) will give us a better ability to remove these large spikes keeping the space as close to constant as possible.
Air Quality
Air quality has many variables and can get quite complex depending on the requirements of the space. There 3 main areas of interest; pathogens, particulate and smell. Pathogens are living organisms such as mould, mildew and spores that can be treated using a UV-C bulb such as our UV Air Purifier. Particulate which is can be seen in the form as dirt, debris and pollution floating in the air down to microscopic levels, this can be treated using our Inline Air Filtration Module by equipping various filtration media to get down to the desired levels required. Smell is quire obvious in the form of off gases from both organic and chemical compounds which can be treated with our Inline Air Filtration Module using either Custom Coconut Charcoal for organic compounds and Zeolite for chemical compounds.
Positioning
When finding a suitable place for the unit pieces we understand you'll have certain restrictions but there are a couple things to think about. Make sure to have easy access to the unit for maintenance. Our units are extremely versatile as they can be hung vertically or horizontally but you want easy access to the fittings and electrical components. An ideal solution to selecting site placement within your space would be to call/email our Product Specialists at 1-877-728-0757 Ext. 1 and get them to do a FREE 3D Room Design showing the layout.
Power Requirements
Total required load is dependant on what we're looking to achieve given your design specification. When we provide system specifications it's based on the hottest day in the summer which is something most manufacturers don't discuss as these are real numbers in a really difficult situation when you really need it. We believe in being upfront and honest so you have a product that works when you need it most rather than dazzle you with minimum run numbers just to close a deal. That being said we do offer custom systems and have a selection of different components to hit efficiency goals. Give us a call and let us know what you need.
Customization
We're always open to create a solution for you if we don't already have one. If our current product lineup doesn't quite match up with your requirements we have the ability to customize our systems based on our modular framework. Let us know what your looking to achieve and we'll make it happen. We know the limits of our products as we thoroughly test all of our components along with having great relations with all of our Tier 1 suppliers we can make anything happen.
Everything Else
What steps should I take when receiving a new unit?
We want to make sure to check for any visible damage. Get the driver to wait a couple minutes and peel off the shrink wrap to look for major damage. If you see major damage do not accept the shipment. If it's a small dent or scuff but feel the system should operate fine, just get the driver to note the damage on the bill of lading. This allows us to go back to the shipping company if the issues are worse than previously expected.
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